Cultivating clean water, open space, and wholesome food:
where agriculture and environmental protection can meet

For many, traditional agriculture in West Virginia is seen as an uncertain and fading way of life, an environmental hazard, or a corporate opportunity. Fortunately, these views are being challenged by a group of farmers in the Potomac Headwaters. They make up Headwater Farms LLC and they are working with Cacapon Institute, WVU Extension, Gourmet Central, and others to grow and market "Petite Beef." No, Petite Beef is not a bovine version of a pygmy goat. Rather, it is a "senior calf" but, lest we get ahead of ourselves, first some background….

The Headwater Farms project had its origins in two very different programs. In the mid-1990s WVU Extension began promoting the cattle pool concept as a way for farmers to obtain higher prices for their cattle. Eight farmers in Hampshire and Hardy counties stepped forward to give it a shot. The concept called for meticulous cooperation between farms. The result was a more uniform "pool" of cattle able to command higher auction prices, and perhaps more importantly, a group of eight farmers willing and able to cooperate on something new.

Meanwhile, Cacapon Institute was investigating the idea of marketing beef raised in a "river friendly" manner to people with a vested interest in clean water, for example, riverfront property owners. Thanks to a shared commitment to West Virginia’s people and landscape, a partnership between Cacapon Institute, WVU Extension, and the farmers took shape.

In 2000 Cacapon Institute and WVU Extension received a $112,000, 2-year grant from the USDA Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program to partner with the farmers, Gourmet Central in Romney, the Hampshire County Development Authority, the USDA-Natural Resources Conservation Service, and a host of others to raise "Petite Beef." This is not beef as we traditionally know it. It's local. It's leaner. It's more wholesome. And most importantly, it's raised in a way that protects streams.

The eight families that make up Headwater Farms have between 300-1400 acres of land each, with collectively 750 head of cattle. HF farmers move their cattle onto fresh fields on a regular basis employing what’s called rotational grazing. Grass is never "eaten to the ground" and is given a resting period for re-growth before it is grazed again. This technique reduces soil erosion, siltation of rivers, and increases pasture productivity. They have also agreed to fence off stream banks to limit cattle access to this sensitive area to no more than three days per month. By participating in this program they agree to independent monitoring of their farms to assure program compliance. To this end Cacapon Institute, in cooperation with the farmers and other agencies, will be developing a farm certification process.

Together they hold nearly 19 miles of river frontage, over 14 miles of which is already fenced. This fencing protects riverside vegetation that filters run-off containing cattle waste, and it prevents cattle from having free access to the river.

And what about our beautiful and productive pastoral landscapes? When you buy Petite Beef, HF farmers do not lose hard earned dollars to mid-west feedlots, trucking companies or chain supermarkets. That is because it is raised here in the Potomac Headwaters, processed locally and sold directly to you. Your dollars go to the farmers and help them say "no" to developers. And these farmers are quite a bunch. They and their operations represent the best that West Virginia has to offer, and what we all want to keep as part of our collective heritage. Their likes include a family that started as sharecroppers three generations ago and now own the farm. Their farms date to the Civil War and before. Their land borders rivers like Patterson Creek and the South Branch of the Potomac. Like it or not, they have already forgotten more about their surrounding geography than many of us can ever hope to learn. At Cacapon Institute we believe that the health, diversity and natural vitality of the area demands that we keep them around.

Petite Beef also makes more healthful and respectful food. These cattle are raised without the accelerated growth induced by artificial hormones, and they receive no antibiotics. The cattle are primarily grass-fed and harvested at 750 pounds, thus the term "Petite"! Younger, pasture-fed cattle produce beef that is naturally leaner. Meal portions are smaller. And by avoiding shipping and industrial feedlot experience, these cattle have been spared this terrible experience--they are raised more humanely.

This amazing mix of land and water conservation, wholesome food, and humane treatment for animals buys the farmers’ a priceless commodity—marketing support from broad-based conservation groups like Cacapon Institute. It will be the membership of these groups that demonstrate to the farmers that conservation can pay. And thus far this is exactly what has happened. Through their purchases, customers are helping to create a market-based solution to our concerns about a clean environment and rural landscapes. HF farmers are encouraged and able to put money into their farms and conservation rather than corporate-controlled infrastructure.

Enthusiastic customers have said: "Farming, fellowship, food, festivity. I like it when that happens. … This is more than just direct marketing. It is living in community" and "The beef is spectacular. It’s the wonderful beef of my childhood!" Cash strapped farmers holding down two plus jobs can't help but notice this kind of interest and economic potential. This is one program where everyone wins!

And a final note--we need your help! This may prove to be a difficult time to sell Petite Beef. Our efforts depend largely on direct mail solicitations to environmentally conscious consumers. Our first mailing went out the week before, even the morning of, the terrorist attack. The second went out five days before America began its campaign in Afghanistan. And now, thanks to the Anthrax mail scare, people are thinking twice about opening letters from someone they don’t know. So, please keep HF Petite Beef in mind when you do your shopping.

This project is supported by a grant from USDA's Northeast Region Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program (NESARE).

What is the Cacapon Institute?

Neil Gillies

Founded in 1985, Cacapon Institute (CI) was originally called the Pine Cabin Run Ecological Laboratory by founders George Constantz and Nancy Ailes. Originally in the cabin the lab facility moved out to the smokehouse, then to the second floor of the barn until, in 1997, when it moved into a modern facility with running water, central heating and air conditioning. In 1996, the Institute became a WV Certified Laboratory, and over the years increased the number of analytical techniques it was certified to use. In 1998, the name was changed to Cacapon Institute.

Speaking more formally, CI is an environmental non-profit corporation with a mission to "use science and education to help concerned citizens protect and enjoy the Cacapon, Potomac and other Appalachian watersheds." CI’s program goals revolve around developing objective, professional scientific information about water resource issues, relaying that information in an accessible form that both increases public awareness and helps the general public and government agencies make informed decisions about these issues. Current staff consists of Peter and Robin Maille, the Education/Outreach Coordinators, and Neil Gillies, the Director and science guy. We recently lost our Research Assistant to the lure of graduate school and hope to replace her soon.

Some Thoughts from Headwaters Farms member Garrett Kuykendall of Riverview Farm.

"I thought it was an opportunity to capitalize a little more on what we were producing, to carry the ball a little further. You read about successful farmers as people who reap more retail dollars. "

"It has added more personal contact with customers. More daily tasks like phone calls, coordination and things like that. And with our discussions on "best management practices" I’ve seen that the use of BMPs among Headwaters Farms members doesn’t always work in favor of the environmental view. For example, our guidelines for riparian zone management do not specify a minimum width for the vegetated buffer strip because a uniform minimum width wasn’t needed and it wasn’t feasible. It is best to look at things scientifically and with common sense and feasibility in mind."

"I have a greater respect for Cacapon Institute now because they listened first. If someone wants to try and understand the farmers point of view that’s a lot better than trying to draft legislation to force the view that other people already have. I had hoped from the start the connection between farmers and environmental groups would help us stop wasting money and going through legal battles arguing with each other. It would be better to put that money and effort into farmers’ pockets so that they use it to better manage their farms environmentally. I also see that there are definitely differences between environmental groups and I’d like to ask some of the further left ones to open their minds to the farmers’ point of view because in general farmers are good environmentalists. "

"I think that the initial discussion phase between environmental groups and farmers is probably what keeps most people from being involved in a partnership like this." Any recommendation? "Environmental groups probably need to initiate the meeting and listen before they speak to avoid ‘putting the farmers off.’ Discuss the farmers views before forming the environmental opinion.